Saturday 10 September 2016

Naxos, Saturday 10 Setpember 2016

There was no reason to get up early, so we slept in until about 8:30 or 9.  When we looked outside the Cat in front  of us was still there, but the two boats behind him had gone, so he could move back.  After breakfast and a trip to the supermarket to buy bread we found the man in charge and he moved the boat.  So we were able to leave at about 10am.

Richard has been inspecting the weather and has decided that we do not need to race back to the Dodecsnese and we shall go to Naxos after all.  There is no wind expected which is just as well because the wind has gone around to the south and guess what, we are going south!  So we just had a long gentle motor for 20 miles.  We tried to put the Genoa up at one stage, but the wind went down to 2knots, so we gave that up.

At about 2pm we approached Naxos town.  The book says it has a marina with some pick up lines, but it is small. Jonnie has told us that sometimes you have to raft out.  So it was with a little trepidation that we entered the port.  First we had to go in the opposite direction to allow a high speed Ferry to leave.  When we got in to the port I could not get any reply to the VHF channel given in the pilot book.  However, as we approached the first pontoon (of only 2) there was someone in charge.  There really was only one proper berth left, but he did not put us there.  Instead he put us at the end of the other side of that pontoon in what is really only half a boat width at the end of the proper berths.  He was very helpful and pleasant and told us just where to put our anchor down and tied us up.  He even complimented me on my seamanship in being able to deal well with the warps!

This could be the most peculiar berth we have been in (perhaps with the exception of the one in Moneche on the Canal du Midi).  But it seems to work and we can just use the passarelle.  But at least we have a space and we have electricity and there is water available.  There is however no proper facilities.  There are two portable toilet cabins with chemical toilets and that is it.  Somehow we will manage.  One problem has been solved.  The marina manager has supplied us with a new gas cylinder.  So I am now fully supplied with gas to cook on, water to wash with and three days food.

It looks like we will need all these provisions because despite R’s view that we could remain in the Cyclades, the wind is getting up over the next few days.  We want to go to Paros, but the main harbour is said to be untenable in a blow because of a terrible swell.  There are however a number of anchorages on the island which are supposed to be sheltered.  So we may spend 4-5 days at anchor and at least we will have most of what we need for that.

After a very late lunch (we didn’t get moored up until 3pm) we had a little wander into the town which has a Chora.  It is very sweet, but I was by then really suffering from heat and perhaps lack of liquids.  So we stopped for an iced coffee and then found the restaurant recommended in the lonely Planet and by the Luries.  It was closed but had a number to ring for reservations and we eventually got a table. 

Back at the boat we relaxed a bit.  Another boat came and stuck himself in front of us not really in a berth at all.  He should have just rafted up to the boat on the end but he never attached any lines to them, for reasons I cannot understand.  I just don’t think these Mediterranean types understand rafting out!


So we had a nice dinner with a decent bottle of Italian wine.  Now back on the boat where it is completely airless.  We will explore the island tomorrow.  It has a very different atmosphere to Mykonos.

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